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Where the heck is Kuala Terengganu, you ask? Although it took
me only a few hours to get my bearings in this quintessentially
Malaysian fishing town, I still have yet to say it correctly. With or
without the proper pronunciation though, it’s well worth the visit.
Malaysia’s state of Terengganu caresses the country’s
east coast, and is blessed with a wealth of natural treasures ranging
from exotic beaches to lush tropical groves. The South China Sea
washes up onto its two hundred and twenty-five kilometers of sandy
shores, and centrally perched is the coastal capital of Kuala
Terengganu (kwä´le terĕng-gä´noo for those of us who
gravitate phonetically).
From the moment we touch down on the tarmac the feeling is
laid back, slow paced and free and easy. Vine-choked mangroves and
vibrant bougainvillea catch shade from palm fronds that border our
route. Mingling amongst the lush flora is a hodge-podge of Malay homes
flaunting rooftops of corrugated aluminum and windows masked with
shutters. Many are tattered from years of wear, and most are poised on
stilts to prevent flooding, promote ventilation, and to keep the
creepy crawlies at bay.
 Sandwiched between the Terengganu River and the deep blue sea
is the emergence of the city’s slow growing hub. In spite of the
occasional high rise, the pace remains at a plod and the people are
polite. “There’s very little crime here,” our guide, Raja,
reassures. “No pick pocketing, just peace-loving,” he chuckles,
with a gleaming grin. Customary beliefs are highly respected, and with
ninety percent of the population being Malay, (remaining are Indian
and Chinese) conservative attire in public places is a common courtesy
and alcohol availability is limited.
Included in our group of eighteen Canadians is my twenty-five
year old daughter who has a hankering for hawkers’ stalls. Needless
to say, our first stop, while traipsing the hot spots, is the Pasar
Payang (central market), where every square inch is crammed with a
kaleidoscope of textiles and handicrafts. “Bartering is totally
expected,” Raja pre-warns. “Thirty percent off the marked price is
possible and forty is a steal. If you smile you may even get more.”
 We tromp the pencil thin corridors where dazzling displays of
silks, songkets (fabric for wedding gear), brasswares and rattan spill
from brimming vendor stalls, then mosey around mounds of mangoes,
papaya and indigenous prickly-skinned durian that emit a pungent
scent. “Tastes like heaven, smells like hell,” we are told by a
man old enough to be my great grandfather. Sweat glistens on his
prune-wrinkled face as his machete whacks the porcupine-like fruit in
half to reveal a tasty treasure. “Here, Madam, give it a try,” he
says, while graciously handing over his hidden gem. I humbly accept,
and although I’m not totally sold on his slogan, I walk away from
the market with more loot than I can sensibly take home, grinning from
ear to ear.
Crossing streets in Malaysia’s busier cities can be a bit
like playing Russian Roulette but we discover the three-block jaunt
from this bargain lover’s bazaar to Chinatown haunts is literally a
breeze.
Ancient shophouses teeter like drunken soldiers while hugging
up to alleyways no wider than glorified bike paths. And beneath their
dominating colonial archways are shuttered windows that peer onto
hoards of historical relics.
Ho Ann Kiong Temple is one of the alluring artifacts that we
explore. Beneath a pagoda-shaped roof of vibrant hues, the intricately
carved shrine is aglow with small lights and vibrant red lanterns.
Here, incense burns and prayer is received. Although the temple has
required rebuilding over the years, it has exemplified the Chinese
culture since its original structure in 1801.
Another lesson in history is provided during our visit to the
Terengganu State Museum. The
complex sprawls over twenty-seven lush hectares and takes the prize
for being the largest in South East Asia. Pathways lead to maritime
and fisheries archives, as well as a display of traditional houses
where we glimpse into lifestyles from the past. The focal point,
though, is the museum’s main building, and behind its stilted
Islamic exterior are ten unique galleries showcasing everything from
historical crafts to contemporary arts. Although the goods are great
for gawking at, there’s no haggling here for homebound presents.
A few kilometers away, though, at the Sutera Semai Centre,
more opportunities wait in store. Meters of detailed fabrics scallop
the ceiling like colourful schooner sails and beneath the billowing
swathes there are artists hard at work in a design process that has
stood the test of time. “Outlines are etched in pencil,” we are
informed, “and after being traced with wax, the dye is applied.”
Although the craft of batik is a lot more complex than paint by
number, the artists have the proficient knack of quickly transforming
a bolt of raw silk into florally patterned shirts, scarves, and
handkerchiefs. We can’t escape without purchasing at least one of
each.
Our final stop and literally high point of the day, is the
two hundred meter hike to the historical Bukit Puteri fortress.
Although all that remains on this picturesque perch are a few
relics from the past, we are provided with a panorama that encompasses
the city limits, its silky shores and tropical islets that lay beyond.
Kuala Terengganu is a destination that offers a wealth of culture, a
variety of landscapes, and some mighty fine shopping. And after a day
of traipsing the hot spots we discover it’s definitely worth a
visit, whether you pronounce it properly or not.
Getting
There:
Daily flights are provided out of Los Angeles (Vancouver to Los
Angeles via Air Canada or HMY) If a Malaysian Airlines ticket is
purchased from Vancouver, the flight from Vancouver-Los Angeles is
covered.
Malaysian
Airlines is well recognized for its superlative service, cuisine and
hospitality. (1-800-552-9264) www.malaysiaairlines.com.my/
Where
To Stay:
Primula Beach Resort
Jalan Persinggahan
P.O. Box 43
20400 Kuala Terengganu
Tel: 609-622 2100
Fax: 609-623 3360
Website: http://www.primulaparkroyal.com/
Email maxcarry@tm.net.my
Things to Do:
For more attractions, check out these web sites:
Tourism Malaysia: http://tourism.gov.my
http://www.visitmalaysia.com
Tourism Malaysia: Phone (604) 689-8899 (Toll Free:
1-800-689-6872); Fax: (604) 689-8804
Jane
and Brent Cassie freelance for a number of publications www.janecassie.com
Jane
is president of BC Association Of Travel Writers http://www.bctravelwriters.com
and can be contacted at janecassie@telus.net
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